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Rock Climbing in Verbier
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Verbier’s perfect location for skiing and snowboarding has been common knowledge for many years. However, the summer story of the resort is still a book to be written. The mountain biking has really started to take off in the last few years, but the real secret of Verbier is it’s abundance of rock climbing.
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What to Expect
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There are over a 64 established climbing areas within easy reach of the resort. Many include approaches through incredible mountainous alpine scenery. Altogether there were over 850 routes at the last count, ranging from beginner to spider man. These vary greatly with every type of conceivable climbing. There are high and low altitude multi-pitch and single pitch climbs. Most are bolt protected which makes them sport climbs, whilst for the purist there are still many routes demanding traditional protection to cut their teeth on. The most common multi-pitch route is bolted and normally has three to five pitches. However there are many single pitch climbs and a great deal of monster routes up to and past ten pitches.
Some areas are even remote enough to justify multi day trips. Commonly they involve a days approach through forests, wild valleys and over glaciers to reach refuges deep in the mountains. Utilising refuges puts the climber right in the middle of the mountains and allows them to make short approaches to some very rarely climbed gems.
If, however, you do not fancy going too far from the beaten track then be comforted by the knowledge that climbing areas closer to civilization rarely get busy. In fact it is very common to climb an area one day and encounter no other people. |
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Climbing Shops in Verbier
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Verbier has only one real mountaineering/ climbing shop, called Mountain Air. Here they will also hire basic climbing gear and sell local guide books. Also, as most of the staff are climbers, it’s a great place to go for advice on anything to do with climbing in the Verbier area.
Martigny also has an excellent climbing shop called Le Look Montagne, which can kit a zero to hero with every piece of climbing gear possible. Their phone number is 0041 277229155. The prices between Martigny and Verbier are hardly noticeable. However, it is not uncommon to have to order even basic climbing gear in Verbier. Delivery can take anything from a couple days to a couple weeks. Then there is always the option of shopping in Chamonix, just over the border. Here prices are cheaper and choice is infinitely greater. |
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Who can I climb with in Verbier?
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In order to find the climbs you will need the guide book that covers the areas in and around Verbier. This is called Escalade dans L’Entremont and is written by a local guide by the name of Olivier Roduit. Sadly there is only a French version, but to be honest my advice would be to hire a guide. La Maison Du Sport, La Fantastique and Adrenaline all have fully certified International Mountain guides (UIAGM). Also Olivier Roduit works as an independent UIAGM guide in Verbier, as does Sasha Burri (sash@netplus.ch). |
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Route Grading
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The Swiss grading system is the same as the French grading system. This uses a combination of numbers, letters and at times plus and minus symbols to give a climb a technical grade; for example 5a or 6c+. British climbers will be familiar with this system, but need to be aware that the grade they climb in the U.K. will equate to a higher number with the French/ Swiss system. Here is a good link to a grade conversion table on the internet. |
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Where can I climb in Verbier?
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Bouldering |
For beginners and children there are two artificial outdoor walls in Verbier; one small one at the Marmotte restaurant, which is free for customers and a larger wall up past the Medran lift. This tower is over 11 metres high and can be booked by going to the Swiss Ski School website.
For wet and winter days there is a small bouldering wall in the Verbier sports centre, but it is literally a small garage sized room that is all completely overhanging. You must pay yearly membership fees to use this wall so for membership details visit the Fer a Cheval restaurant and ask for Yves or Sasha. As this is only a realistic option for locals and residents to Verbier, it is worth mentioning that there is a much larger wall in the town of Martigny, thirty minutes away. The wall is nine metres high, has up to fourteen fixed ropes and costs as little as 5chf for the day. More information can be found on the Martigny website of the Club Alpin Suisse.
Les Trappistes is a superb climbing area halfway between Verbier and Martigny. Here the rock is really good quality and the climbs are real classics. Gargantua, for example, is a five pitch climb with grades ranging from 6a to 6b+ (French Grades). The central pitch is an incredible dihedral or corner crack that leans out and over hangs as you move up it. At the top there is a small belay platform which affords awe inspiring views across the tree covered valley below. The last pitch is the toughest but the reward at the top is that you arriving in a lush pine forest. Here you descend through the peaceful forest for twenty minutes, via a track, back down to the bottom of the climbs.
 | View from halfway up Edelweiss on Pierre Avoi | Pierre Avoi is a massive tower of rock that sits on top of the ridge line above Savoleyres. The area is so prominent that it can be seen from the Rhone valley for miles around. My favourite route is a five pitch climb called Edelweiss. The grades range from 5c to 6a and although it is not incredibly tough climbing the bolts are well strung out on some sections. The whole area has around 46 routes for all levels and the incredible views from the top make this area a must for any visiting climbers.
In the forest past the Patier area of Verbier sits the climbing area of La Balme. This magical place is pretty easy to see from anywhere in the area. It is a huge tower of rock that literally sprouts out of a lush pine forest. All the faces can be climbed and once again there is a vast mixture of up to 65 routes to suit all tastes. Most of our friends who have started climbing in Verbier have cut their teeth here; but the area is so varied that you will find the locals working tirelessly on some pretty hardcore projects.
 | Wide selection of routes at Dorenaz | One other area worth mentioning is down by the town of Martigny and is a great crag. Due to its location on the corner of the Rhone valley it receives constant wind. This helps to dry the crag quickly after rain fall. Also on hot summer days the wind helps to keep hands dry by reducing sweating. Once again there is a huge selection of routes for all abilities. One area of Dorenaz, as it is named, is full of multi pitch routes and another has some tough single pitch routes. Our favourite route is a massive crack climb that runs from top to bottom of the cliff face. Sadly it is bolt protected but can also be trad lead for the purist.
Anyway, that is a tiny selection of our favourite areas in and around Verbier. However the options are limitless and the sheer variety of different types of climbing is both staggering and awe inspiring to beginner climbers or seasoned veterans alike. Added to this is Verbier’s close proximity to Geneva and its airport; from here there are excellent road and rail links to the resort. The town itself is a sunny, warm, cosmopolitan resort set high in beautiful alpine settings. For non climbing days there are a host of other activities and events throughout the summer to make your stay a real memory. |
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